Industrial Nutrition

Good food guru Michael Pollan was recently interviewed on Amy Goodman’s Democracy Now show. You can watch, listen, or read the transcription on the Democracy Now website. In the interview, he mentions having to revise the rules he urged readers to consider when choosing real food (as opposes to edible-food-like-substances- think yogurt vs. gogurt.) in his book “In Defense of Food- An Eater’s Manifesto.” Apparently, food industry marketers read his book too: in response to Pollan's rules urging folks not to eat any food with more than 5 ingredients and to avoid high fructose corn syrup, the ever clever marketers have come out with products that co-opt these ideas: he names Hagen-Daz "5", and the “real sugar” (not HFCS) campaigns of Snapple and soon Coke. What this all means is “business as usual”: bad products still get sold and our real underlying problems don't get addressed.

While the food industry continues to deliver new and improved products that promise to bring consumers health and happiness with some even claiming to be "green", this status quo approach does little to address the underlying problems related to the general public's food illiteracy or our environmental woes. Most people have little understanding of where food comes from or how our food system impacts the planet, let alone their own health. As a registered dietitian, I've taken it upon myself to add this type of basic food system education to my job description as a nutrition educator. By exploring the very foundations of our industrial food system, we all can better understand all the ways in which this system fails to deliver healthy, sustainable, and delicious food for everyone. When health professionals learn the basics of the food system, they can more effectively address the compound issues their clients and communities are facing. What follows is an explanation of certain key issues related to health and the food system and resources for further information.

Industrial Nutrition 101: A system both inefficient & unsustainable

Our modern, industrial food system has become increasingly complex since the industrial revolution. This energy intensive, heavy input system creates huge amount of waste—each step in the elongated process of getting food to mouths requires the use of fossil fuels, fertilizers, and/or chemicals and ends up creating waste problems in the form of CO2, trash, chemical run-off, and animal manure. One problem that exemplifies this system’s inefficiencies is the problems that result when manure becomes a waste product instead of valuable farm input. In an almost ironic twist, the nitrogen that makes manure such a great fertilizer makes it absolutely devastating to rivers, lakes, and streams when large amounts of untreated animal waste from factory farms is allowed to seep into our waterways. But at each step, this system operates without regard to climate change and as if the earth’s resources are inexhaustible—which they most certainly are not.

Not only is the industrial food system energy intensive, wasteful, and convoluted- it is inefficient at it's very core. The US food system uses more energy than it creates. Over 7 times more—meaning that when you eat food produced in the industrial food system, for every kilocalorie of food you eat, 7 kilocalories (or equivalent) have been used up to produce and transport that food to you. See the University of Michigan’s Center for Sustainable Systems Fact Sheet, “US Food System” for further details on this and for references.

These ineffieciencies can’t go on forever. The twin problems of climate change and peak oil force us to change strategies. You know about climate change certainly, even the most skeptical scientists will acknowledge its existence, if not it's cause. But what is this epic problem "peak oil," you might ask. It’s simply the peak amount of oil we can produce within nature and humankind's limit. Peak oil is an un-debatable physical phenomenon- the only piece of this reality that can be debated if when its going to happen and who it will hurt first. Some peak oil experts say the peak of our ability to produce oil has already occurred, others forecast it in the next few years. The end of our oil based economy doesn’t just mean we have to wean ourselves off big cars- it means we have to change the way we farm, produce, and procure our food- or many more people in the world go hungry. It means that we will have to change the way we go about our lives- from buying presents to building homes to accessing healthcare.

Industrial Nutrition: Public health takes note

The world of public health is beginning to take peak oil seriously- not only for concerns surrounding food security and hunger, but also healthcare delivery. This past March, the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health hosted a conference on Peak Oil and Health. Speaker’s included a congressman, the director of the CDC’s National Center for Environmental Health, economists, and public health officials. The conference aimed to connect the dots between peak oil, climate change, the built environment, and declining ecosystems, to describe the potential impacts of peak oil on the public health sector, and to explore solutions. Presentation slides are available online.

Industrial Nutrition: Resources & Solutions

Interested in learning more about peak oil? Check out the Oil Drum- an important resource for peak oil activist's whose opinion I hold in high esteem. This will link you to an Oil Drum article on Ecological Economics and the Food System. For communities and people interested in building resilience and finding solutions; Transition Town offers a construct to help people, neighborhoods, cities, and so on to work together to address issues relating to transitioning to a more sustainable human-scaled economy.

Sustainable Nutrition Bottom Line: The industrial food system has little to offer in the way of real solutions to our health and planetary problems. It is essential we begin working to drastically change the dynamics of our food system. What can you do? Learn. Build your local, sustainable food economy by supporting local farmers using low energy intensive growing methods. Plant food. Connect with others in your community and work collectively to find creative ways to address climate change, peak oil, and health.

The Practicality of Local Foods

As part of the Live Local Milwaukee initiative, yesterday the Paths to a Sustainable Future Group held a free Sustainable Living conference at the Urban Ecology Center. I participated in a panel discussion titled “Are Local Foods Really Practical? For Me? In SE WI?” along with Young Kim of the Fondy Food Market, Jay Salinas of Growing Power and the Wormfarm Institute, David Kozlowski of Pinehold Gardens and the CSA Initiative and moderated by Martha Davis Kipcak of Slow Food WiSE & the Kitchen Table Project.

I answered the question put to the panel by saying, “From a time & money perspective; no, local foods are not practical. However, it is impractical to continue business as usual.”

Business as usual when it comes to our foodways will only sink us deeper into the mire of climate change, land loss, water pollution, malnutrition, chronic disease, depletion of our precious topsoil, devastating loss of biodiversity and cultural diversity. We have gotten too big for our britches and we can’t expect to continue a food system that is propped up by cheap oil.

Re-localization of food systems is our only hope.

Our panel discussed many of the challenges facing us in terms of local food systems; capacity, land preservation, training farmers, creating distribution systems & small processing facilities, time, money, and general resistance to doing things differently. One of the themes that surfaced was our social value system- currently speedy, efficient, cheap foods allow us to get on with our hectic schedules of multitasking until we collapse in front of the tv where we are blasted with ads for more speedy, efficient, cheap stuff.... Its time for a makeover.

Here are some further thoughts on the matter:

Cost:
The hidden costs of industrial agriculture and fast food are unbearable. We spend less percentage of our income on food now than ever in history. Only we end up paying for it in the end with healthcare costs, environmental costs, as well as the direct cost of subsidies for the tax payer.

Public Health:
We have an epidemic of chronic diseases that are directly tied to our food system. Diabetes, heart disease, obesity are all related to the way we eat.

In my day job, I work with people with chronic diseases to help them make healthy lifestyle changes to improve their health outcomes. The picture seems to me quite grim. I can tell you that it is almost impossible to improve your health when your community foodways have been replaced by fast food outlets, convenience stores or liquor stores, and commodity distributors.

Our species are not immune to the laws of nature. When you have bad food available, people will, most often, eat it. You can study genetics and hormones and such, but it all comes down to the fact that we are wired to eat. We need gardens, farmers markets, co-ops in every neighborhood. And people need to relearn what to do with real food. We need to build skills around growing, buying, cooking, and eating. These are essential tools for health promotion and disease prevention.

Nutrition:
We have well over 3000 calories available to each of us in this country. Most of that comes from substances formerly known as corn. This breakdown of calories does not support the dietary guidelines. Local foods tend to be less processed, more wholesome, and more pleasurable on every level.

In Wisconsin, It is possible for those dedicated locavores to have a well balanced diet by eating 100% local foods (the only true exception is salt) year round. All of our food groups are represented: grains & starches, fruits, vegetables, dairy, meat, beans, nuts, fats, sweeteners, even beer, wine, liquor! We live in a land of plenty and yet our commodity food comes from and creates lands of scarcity around the world.

Global Warming:
Our food system is a major contributor to global warming in the fertilization and chemical application of crops as well as the transportion of food stuffs around the globe. The average meal travels 1500 miles to from farnm to fork. When it come sto the standard American plate of meat and potatoes, I’ve seen figures as high as 22,000 miles. Purchasing foods from your region can reduce your carbon footprint.

Peak Oil:
Industrial agriculture relies on oil to make its engine go. Oil is a finite resource and many experts believe world wide production has peaked or is near peak levels. Re-learning how to grow and process food without major oil & petroleum inputs will ensure a smoother transition into a post carbon future.

Biodiversity:
Poly-culture can ensure good nutrition, support wildlife and soil conservation, and it can also put out a lot more food stuff than the monocrops of high yield corn that seem to be planted fence post to fence post around farming communities.

Elitism:
Do not let people tell you that local, good, clean, and fair foods are bourgeois. These are the foods of the people. Our globalized food system strips people around the world of their food sovereignty. The cheap processed fast food costs a lot for the folks who no longer subsistence farm, for the folks with clogged arteries and pending diabetes, for the planet and for future generations. 35 million Americans are at risk of food insecurity- this in the wealthiest nation in the world with an excess of food.

We need to be valuing our food and this means making good food more accessible to everyone. One of the first practical steps to make this inevitability equitable would be to subsidize the good food. A current practice example is the Senior Farmer’s Market Nutrition Program- which doesn’t give much to individual seniors to use at farmer's markets, but it’s a step in the right direction.

We can make a better food system by creating and supporting action & policies:

• Conserve land.
• Teach people to farm & garden.
• Make it affordable for young farmers to get started.
• Promote gardens in schools, churches, front lawns, neighborhoods, porches, and rooftops.
• Allow chickens & bees in urban areas.
• Farm Bill: Improve upon the newly enacted bill with increased local foods initiatives and nutrition programs..
• Demand that your local and national policy makers to make sustainable food a priority.

How a person can eat locally:

• Redesign your life. Make time for food.
• Ask for local foods at restaurants and stores.
• Pay more for food. Make it a much larger percentage of your income.
• Garden: get unplugged and dig in. This is good exercise too.
• Learn to cook and preserve foods.